Ascending two peaks in one trek is always fun, although this loop across some of the highest peaks in Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) from the National Trust car park in Cwm Gwdi (LD3 8LE) was particularly challenging. In early February 2025, the prolonged period of cold weather meant warm clothing was essential and Dean and I set off wearing hats, gloves, and my favourite double-layered hiking jumper. The route we would be following was partially described in my ‘Walking in the Brecon Beacons’ book (Cicerone, David Whittaker and Andy Davies), but the addition of climbing Cribyn made training a little more challenging for April’s (2025) Everest Base Camp.
After leaving the car park and heading south, we very quickly started climbing up the grassy hillside of Allt Ddu. The views across the Cwm Sere valley towards Bryn Teg and Cribyn were spectacular, although Pen-y-Fan remained hidden behind the slopes we had yet to climb and the rapidly flowing low cloud. It took the usual twenty minutes or so for our breathing to normalise and even though the path remained steep and unrelenting we were both feeling good. Being able to talk is always a sign that you’re walking at the right speed.
After passing Allt Ddu on our left (1,804 feet or 550 metres), we followed the Cefn Cwm Llwch ridge path. As we ascended, the biting cold wind strengthened, whipping up and across the valley. On the ridge we were totally exposed and the wind was so strong it was blowing my walking sticks as soon as they left the ground. Cloud poured over the mountain tops and ridges like dry ice at a Taylor Swift concert and the temperature dropped as we climbed. After an hour the bitterly cold wind cut through our clothing and we were forced to cover our faces to try and keep warm. We looked as though we on a South Pole expedition. The path was now scattered with puddles thick with ice and large patches of frozen solid snow.
We trudged onwards and the path gradually steepened as we approached the top of Pen-y-Fan. The final climb to the summit was rocky, very icy and dangerous in the difficult conditions. We had to take care with every step and passed some other hikers struggling to climb the final ice covered section in footwear without any grip. The wind was unrelenting as we scrambled up to the cloud covered summit at 886 metres (2,906 feet). It had taken us 90 minutes.
After the obligatory summit photographs, we followed the Beacons Way trail and headed south-east towards Cribyn, taking care on the ice-covered, sandstone plateau of Pen-y-Fan. As we stood at the top of the Craig Cwm Sere descent, two different groups of disorientated walkers asked us if they were walking the right way to the Pont-y-Daf car park near Storey Arms, which was in the opposite direction. In the low cloud, the walkers had simply lost their bearings. A simple mistake that could have put them miles off track.
We trudged downwards, taking care when descending the steep, rocky and icy path. The Craig Cwm Sere descent is challenging at the best of times, with shear drops to your left from where the strong cold wind whips up and into your face. It was so cold that ice was coating my gloves and jumper. In good weather, you would be captivated by the incredible views down the valley towards the Upper Neuadd Reservoir and the imposing Cribyn peak, but we were just shrouded in low cloud. Occasionally, there would be gaps in the fast moving greyness which would provide tantalising glimpses of the steep mountain climb ahead of us.
At the bottom of the descent, where the ground flattens out between the two mountain peaks, we left the Beacons Way and crossed a very boggy patch of land before heading north-east up the very steep path that would take us to the summit of Cribyn at 795 metres (2,608 feet). After a twenty minute non-stop climb, on a path laid by National Trust volunteers (thank you!), we reached the pile of stones marking the top of the mountain. The second peak had been conquered in two hours and fifteen minutes, but the view remained the same. Dense low cloud.
After a couple more photographs, we walked to the edge of Cribyn and looked down at the near vertical descent down Bryn Teg. Taking extra care because of the icy conditions, we weaved our way down the path. As we descended we looked back to see the rushing cloud obscuring and then tantalisingly revealing the peak of the mountain.
Gradually, as we left the dizzy heights of the mountains the wind abated and the ice turned into mud on the ground. The cloud cover dispersed slightly, at least allowing us to gaze across at the Cefn Cwm Llwch ridge that had taken us to the top of Pen-y-Fan and back at Cribyn now behind us.
After trekking for nearly three hours, we reached Cwmcynwyn at the bottom of the Bryn Teg ridge path. We then followed narrow roads past Bailea until we picked up the Three Rivers Ride trail, which took us across fields, past farm buildings, and up a farm track. An hour after we had reached the bottom of the Bryn Teg ridge path, we finally reached the Cwm Gwdi car park. Dean and I had a congratulatory hug and team photo. The walk had been perfect training for the Everest Base Camp challenge.
In four hours we had walked 7.2 miles and ascending 2,352 feet (717 metres). If you fancy a challenging and different climb up Pen-y-Fan then this is the one to try.
